Dermatologists EXPOSE the TRUTH About Retinol—This One Product Changed Thousands of Faces Overnight, But Most People Still Use It WRONG!

Learn the shocking mistake ruining your skin and the Doctorly-approved fix you NEED to see before it’s too late.

Everything You Need to Know About Retinoids: Benefits, How to Use Them, and Avoiding Common Mistakes
Based on insights from dermatologists Dr. Maxfield and Dr. Shaw

Retinoids have been called the “cornerstone” of skincare—and for good reason. If you’re looking for a single ingredient that can transform your skin, treat acne, improve fine lines, even out texture, reduce hyperpigmentation, and give you that elusive “dewy” glow, this is it. But getting the most out of retinoids also means understanding how they work, how to start them properly, and how to avoid the dreaded side effects like irritation and peeling.

In a recent video, dermatologists Dr. Maxfield and Dr. Shaw shared their personal experiences and expert advice on retinoids, making it easier for beginners and veterans alike to build the perfect routine. Here’s your 1000-word deep dive into all things retinoids.

What Exactly Is a Retinoid?

The term retinoid is a broad category—think of it like the word “fruit.” Under that umbrella are different types like retinol, retinaldehyde, tretinoin, adapalene, and even the potent tazarotene. These are all Vitamin A derivatives, but they vary in potency and irritation potential.

For example:

Retinol (OTC): Needs to be converted twice in the skin to become active.

Retinaldehyde: One conversion step, stronger than retinol.

Tretinoin (Rx): Already active, more potent, used for acne and anti-aging.

Adapalene (OTC/Rx): Synthetic retinoid, less irritating, great for acne.

Tazarotene (Rx): Very strong and effective but often causes irritation.

So when someone says “retinoid,” they’re referring to this entire class. Choosing the right one depends on your skin goals, tolerance, and sensitivity.

Why Should You Use a Retinoid?

According to Dr. Shaw, retinoids offer a long list of benefits that make them worth including in almost every skincare routine:

Anti-Acne: They regulate skin cell turnover and prevent clogged pores.

Anti-Aging: Retinoids boost collagen production and reduce fine lines.

Brightening: They fade hyperpigmentation and even out skin tone.

Smoothing: They improve skin texture and reduce pore size.

Preventative: They’re one of the few ingredients proven to slow visible signs of aging.

In short, if there were a skincare hall of fame, retinoids would be first-ballot inductees.

The Most Common Mistake: Doing Too Much, Too Fast

When Dr. Shaw started using a retinoid during his dermatology residency, he made the classic mistake: diving in headfirst. He applied it every night from day one, expecting instant results. Instead, he got what dermatologists call “retinoid dermatitis”—redness, irritation, and flaking.

His takeaway? “You have to be patient.” Retinoids don’t work overnight. Results typically take 8 to 12 weeks to show up, and the early phase often includes some discomfort. But don’t give up—it gets better.

How to Start a Retinoid the Right Way

Dr. Maxfield and Dr. Shaw laid out several tips to help you incorporate a retinoid smoothly into your routine:

Tip #1: Choose the Right Strength

Start with a lower-strength formula, especially if you’re new to retinoids or have sensitive skin. OTC options like CeraVe Resurfacing Retinol or The Ordinary’s Granactive Retinoid are beginner-friendly. Prescription-strength options like tretinoin or Altreno (which includes hydrating ingredients) are more powerful but may require a dermatologist.

Remember: stronger is not always better. Build up slowly.

Tip #2: Use a Pea-Sized Amount

More isn’t better with retinoids. A pea-sized amount is all you need to cover your entire face. Dot it onto your skin and then gently spread it out. Always apply retinoids after cleansing and follow with a gentle moisturizer.

Tip #3: Start Slow (Rule of Threes)

Dr. Shaw introduced a helpful “Rule of Threes”:

Month 1: Use it every third night.

Month 2: Use it every other night.

Month 3: Graduate to every night.

This gradual approach allows your skin to adjust, reducing the risk of flaking and irritation.

Tip #4: Moisturize Liberally

Always follow your retinoid with a moisturizer to support your skin barrier. You can also try the “sandwich method”—apply moisturizer before and after your retinoid for extra protection, especially in the early stages.

Expected Side Effects (and Why They’re Not All Bad)

Yes, peeling and irritation can happen—but that’s often a sign the retinoid is doing its job. These symptoms are temporary and usually resolve within 2–4 weeks. What’s happening is your skin is speeding up cell turnover and adjusting to its “new normal.”

If irritation becomes unbearable, scale back usage or take a break for a few days. Always avoid harsh exfoliants (like scrubs or AHAs/BHAs) while your skin is adjusting.

Can You Use Retinoids More Than Once a Day?

Short answer: No. Dr. Maxfield joked about using his retinoid twice or even three times a day—but that’s purely anecdotal and not recommended. More frequent use doesn’t yield faster results; it just increases your risk of irritation. Stick with once nightly, max.

Sun Sensitivity and Retinoids

This is one of the most important points: Retinoids make your skin more sensitive to UV rays.

Always, always wear sunscreen when using a retinoid. Ideally, use it at night and wear a broad-spectrum SPF 30 or higher during the day. Sun protection not only prevents damage but also enhances the benefits of your retinoid over time.

Final Thoughts: What to Expect Long-Term

The real magic of retinoids lies in consistency. You might not see dramatic changes in the first month, but after three months, most users notice:

Fewer breakouts

Smoother, more even skin

Diminished fine lines

A natural glow or “dewy” appearance

As Dr. Shaw put it, “This is the one ingredient that changed my skin the most.”

Conclusion: A Lifelong Investment in Your Skin

Retinoids are one of the most researched, dermatologist-approved skincare ingredients available today. Whether your goal is to fight acne, look younger, or get that elusive glow, a retinoid can help—but only if you use it wisely.

So take it slow. Be patient. Moisturize. And don’t forget the sunscreen.

Because when it comes to retinoids, smart consistency wins the race.

Bonus Tip: If your skin is super sensitive, consider applying your retinoid after your moisturizer to buffer irritation. Just know this may reduce its potency slightly—but can still offer major long-term benefits.